Do You Have Any Questions?


Hey,

As you know this site was put together and maintained for you and the goal of PigeonSite.com is to try to answer any questions that you may have regarding pigeons. If you have any questions at all please post them here and I will have my team of experts try to answer them for you.

Also if you see a question posted that you feel you can answer please feel free to reply to it.

I look forward to reading your questions
Yours in the sport
-Chris

Do you have any questions?

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  1. #1 by ZAIN on March 29, 2011 - 1:14 pm

    PLEASE HELP ME I HAVE A PAIR OF PIGEON MY PIGEON LAID EGGS 1ST EGG IS HATCH AFTER 19 DAYS BUT SECOND EGG DOES NOT HATCH ABOUT AFTER 24 DAYS.HOW CAN I NOW THAT THE EGG IS BAD OR NOT BAD TO NOT BREAK IT?PLEASE REPLY ME QUICK.

  2. #2 by caroline on March 5, 2011 - 6:47 pm

    Hi, im trying to find out a breed of pigeon ive looked up so many pages pictures ect but no luck, i do have pictures but i dont know how to post them im not a breeder racer ect the way these birds just happened to appear has a story that means alot to me n would love to kno to look at the exact breed so i can feed them properly they come into my garden everyday have done for few yrs i put bread bird seed out but now 2 has turned into 12 they are similar to a fleshy colour but the tips of the wings are brown they are more like a dove smaller look more timid than a pigeon i would really appreciate any help
    many thanks caroline x

  3. #3 by Riyadh on December 28, 2010 - 4:14 am

    I have big problem last month i have lost my pigeons about 15 birds because of some sickness. Pigeons neck turning around and cant eat it self please tell me what is the good medicine for it?

  4. #4 by Masood on November 12, 2010 - 9:52 am

    Dear sir,
    I am from india,gujarat,surat.I have two problems (1) Among my flock, one of each pair of young chicks die after 15 days after going light, lack of appetite. often after trating them they tend to survive but they have delayed growth compared to their companion.Also their feather quality is very poor.only after moulting they seem normal.Thenafter their flying also becomes normal as compared to their companion.Plz Suggest any treatment. for this

  5. #5 by Whitney on October 10, 2010 - 2:32 pm

    TO: Pigeon girl. Other types of pigeons do not have a great sense of homing ability. Fancy breeds are not strong flyers, some are not able to fly at all. I think that sporting breeds like rollers have a bit of homing ability because they can fly around the loft and return to it. But they can’t be taken a few miles from home like homing pigeons.

  6. #6 by pigeongirl on October 9, 2010 - 12:58 pm

    hello. i was wondering, when racing pigeons, do you have to own racing homers, or can you race other breeds. i know the racers are bred for racing, but is it ALOUD to race other breeds? thanks verry much!

  7. #7 by ken kelly on October 8, 2010 - 12:43 pm

    hi just looking at some off comments on the webpage barley is one off the best feed
    for sick pigeons electrolights can give proplems too sick pigeons becaus of sugar
    bacteria love it try probyeottics to get rid of blue tung blue flesh cut feed down for
    afeewdays probyeottics in water

  8. #8 by jay on September 23, 2010 - 11:27 am

    hey chris! i know this is the right site that can answer my question because you have a lot of expert members here and a lot of fanciers read this very informative sight,. im just asking about the convertion of human medicine to the dosages of pigeon, because in my country its hard to buy a pigeon medicine spcially in my place, so sometimes i try to use the human medicine the antibiotics or the multivitamins in tablet form or in liquid but im affraid to threat them because of over dossage or under dossage, so im just confused about the right dossage to be taken by a pigeon like how many mg. or ml.? because some of the medicines here are 100 mg.250 & 500 mg per 5 ml,..they are to much strong for my racing pigeons need,.. can you give an idea about this matter,..can you post your suggestion my co reader & pigeon racing lover at my email,, vcoachjay08@yahoo.com ,, your help much be appraciated,… thank you & more power!!!!

  9. #9 by jay on September 23, 2010 - 10:58 am

    hey chris! a succesful year for the pigeon fanatics,… first, im very much thankful for being 1 of the fallower of this pigeon site because theres a lot of things to learn here specially from the experts, & also for the other fancier they are all great,..so have a good race to them,.. thank you guys ive learned a lot,….

  10. #10 by johnboy on August 29, 2010 - 2:05 pm

    hi sir i was just wanting to ask if you new want could be wrong with my pigeon one min it was ok the next it was off its food and falling to one side with no life in it. the next morning it was up on it feet but not looking good.it won’t eat it just staggers about ?

  11. #11 by Christian on August 17, 2010 - 7:29 pm

    I got some pigeons today and they won’t come or respond to me. I know they have to used to their surrounding. But I would like to see if they would come to me. Is they any way to call a pigeon? Like, for example, calling a dog by whistling.

    Thank you, Chris!
    Christian

  12. #12 by antione on July 7, 2010 - 6:15 am

    why do my pigeon s dont fly high and they go in to the tree

  13. #13 by KP on July 6, 2010 - 10:43 pm

    Spiderman :
    Give her calcium for at least 1 week…then rest your hen for 2 months (not having or laying eggs). Then continue giving multi-vitamins.
    Hope it will help…c”,)

    hatchman :
    Hi chris and to everyone!i have a problem with one of my hen. evrrytym she lays egg it cant get-up and the legs wont move like a disabled that cant stands and walk normally.. almost 2weeks before it backs to normal. do you think its overuse? it can be breed this be again? do i need to rest it for many months? do u knw any medicine 4 this? hoping for sum1 to help me! eventhough im a cocker/breeder for 16years i still need help thats why im asking to you guys! thanks HATCHMAN

    hatchman, First I wanted to apologies not replying on your Answer because i completely lost hope to get answer since the guys who is running this forum he just cut and past others people article’s, he him self dont know anything about pigeons, But people like you and others like you make the deference. Let’s come back to the topic. I am feeding my birds best feed as well expensive, initially I was concerned about the feed, but after the investigation of feed suppliers I dont have any doubt on feed, but as you advised I will give it a try to wash out the feed. Only the sick bird vomit. I have lost many birds! “Hatchman” I have a question about my hen’s feathers, Her feather are shedding like crazy even thou it is not molting season, only her feathers getting when you catch her? by any chance do you know what could be the problem? I am giving them best multi-V grits etc etc? Again I wanted to thanks for your reply.

    Regards,
    KP

  14. #14 by hatchman on June 16, 2010 - 10:41 am

    hi KP! still need a help?

    • #15 by hatchman on June 16, 2010 - 1:12 pm

      Hi chris and to everyone!i have a problem with one of my hen. evrrytym she lays egg it cant get-up and the legs wont move like a disabled that cant stands and walk normally.. almost 2weeks before it backs to normal. do you think its overuse? it can be breed this be again? do i need to rest it for many months? do u knw any medicine 4 this? hoping for sum1 to help me! eventhough im a cocker/breeder for 16years i still need help thats why im asking to you guys! thanks HATCHMAN

      • #16 by Spiderman on June 17, 2010 - 1:24 am

        Give her calcium for at least 1 week…then rest your hen for 2 months (not having or laying eggs). Then continue giving multi-vitamins.
        Hope it will help…c”,)

    • #17 by KP on July 6, 2010 - 10:42 pm

      hatchman, First I wanted to apologies not replying on your Answer because i completely lost hope to get answer since the guys who is running this forum he just cut and past others people article’s, he him self dont know anything about pigeons, But people like you and others like you make the deference. Let’s come back to the topic. I am feeding my birds best feed as well expensive, initially I was concerned about the feed, but after the investigation of feed suppliers I dont have any doubt on feed, but as you advised I will give it a try to wash out the feed. Only the sick bird vomit. I have lost many birds! “Hatchman” I have a question about my hen’s feathers, Her feather are shedding like crazy even thou it is not molting season, only her feathers getting when you catch her? by any chance do you know what could be the problem? I am giving them best multi-V grits etc etc? Again I wanted to thanks for your reply.

      Regards,
      KP

      • #18 by John Narciso on July 6, 2010 - 11:02 pm

        Hey KP.
        Caught your post of July 6th to Hatchman.Back when you posted your original serious problems, I was just had fluffing,one leg, and loose,watery stools.Tried to talk to vets, info on line,medicines for this, try that, try this ,sounds like that. etc,etc,etc..you know the drill.I finally called a “big” flyer in California(i’m a newby) and he directed me to Greg at Jedd’s 1-800-659-5928..He really hooked me up with the proper medicine and my birds have been doing great ever since their first treatment.I did treat a 2nd round as the mfgr. recommended.Also, this flyer, I won’t mention his name on this post recommended a perfect supplement.I’ve got beautiful form, healthy sqeakers now, healthy and happy. I threw away all the old crap I was using.
        if you want to talk to me before you call, my # is 408-629-6438 home most days now. I am in san Jose,ca. Just a thought KP. Sincerely, John

  15. #19 by hatchman on June 16, 2010 - 10:23 am

    KP :Hi, I am sick and tired with Doctors visits! I dont know where to start, I have lost many birds with unknown disease, I been facing this unknown disease which kill pigeon no matter what you do, even thou I took my birds to many well known avian vet, runs so many tests INTESTINAL PARASITES DIRECT,INTESTINAL PARASITES FLOTATION,CYTOLOGY,BACTRIAL CULTURE/SENSITIVITY\CROP,CLOACA, COCCIDIA,GIARDIA MANY MORE. They found E-coli and prescribed BAYTRIL SUSP plus nystatin for fungus. once I start giving this to birds they lost their appetite they dont eat much one out of 8 died next 2 days even thou I was giving BAYTRIL. Now I have left few kind of sick they start recovering as well start molting which make me so surprise. after 10 days they get back where they started SICK again… SYMPTOMS was vomiting stand on one leg fluffy even they were on heating pad. When ever I feed something they vomit. Can someone please help me what could be this problem. There is no virus found in their system. I have checked canker\worm no problem @ all. The problem was not eating they drink water little bit but the big problem was vomiting.. that made them thin please HELP ME I WILL NOT GO BACK TO VET!!!!

  16. #20 by Wayne on June 14, 2010 - 5:35 am

    Could you be good enough to point me in the right direction,concerning vitamins.I would like to know what i could give them in the form of vegatables etc and when and what quantity.Do they beat supplements etc?.Many thanks and great website and information.

  17. #21 by Raymond Grech on June 13, 2010 - 10:47 am

    Hi Chris,

    Can you please shed some light on Pink mouths vs Red mouths in Racing pigeons. Dr. Colin Walker says, quote, “The lining of the mouth should be rosy pink, not pale (associated with anemia or general ill health), red (inflammation) or dirty grey (due to long-term inflammation, usually associated with respiratory infection or wet canker). http://www.racingpigeondigest.com/archives/featured_articles/90.
    However there are some different opinions. Old Hand supported a red mouth. Considering that many lofts have more red mouths rather than pink (for no apparent reason and racing results are excellent), What steps should be taken to turn a red mouth into a pink mouth?

    Many thanks
    Raymond

  18. #22 by ali on May 30, 2010 - 5:40 am

    What are the reasons why the eye inflammation?
    Why are see respiratory infection in summer?
    What are the medicines needed to treat eye infections?
    What the medicines
    That must be mixed to treat chronic respiratory strong?

  19. #23 by ali on May 30, 2010 - 5:33 am

    i see some signs in my pigeons , wattery diarhea & dead with out any signs , lacremation in eyes ,the thorate is inflamated ,difficalty breathning ,grenish droppings.
    Ineed some suggest to treat it?

  20. #24 by Nick Demas on May 29, 2010 - 5:46 am

    I asked a question on March 24,2010,#41, about ventilation for two lofts and would love to hear what your team of experts have to say. I understand you guys have a million questions to answer and it will take time. I am patiently waiting and will continue to do so.
    I have another question that maybe someone can help me with. I am very interested in Alex Bieche’s design of the “chimney roof” I saw in the dvd “Secrets of Champions IV”. Is there any way I can get information and measurements of this design? Any help would be greatly appreciated

  21. #25 by Dennis on May 23, 2010 - 10:07 pm

    hi i was wondering if there is a way to resettle prisoner birds or old birds you get from someone else so they can be loft

    thank you
    Dennis

  22. #26 by Abdulnaser Fadil on May 23, 2010 - 4:09 pm

    I am an amateur of pigeons of Taiz Yemen
    I have found very interesting your articles
    thanks to your site web I have many quastions that i want to ask about pegions
    1- Is it eye sing are very Important to win?
    2- What is the most important things in eye sing?
    3-I would to know about the wings (long distance,and short distance wings with figuers)?
    You prompt reply will be greatly appreciate.

  23. #27 by KP on May 11, 2010 - 11:22 pm

    so I wont get the answer here!

    • #28 by John Narciso on May 12, 2010 - 9:54 am

      KP. Man, that sounds terrible.I do not have an answer for you, but I am anxious to here a reply for your delima. I have a couple birds that perch on one leg, and are always fluffed up too.But those seem to be the only issue.
      Good luck to you and HOPING that you get some HELP SOON!!

    • #29 by hatchman on June 16, 2010 - 11:40 am

      hi KP! in your case, i think its better to CHANGE YOUR FEEDS!!!! right now, i think the feeds that u gve is contaminated of high-acid. usually grains has it. thats why evrytym they feed they VOMIT! ryt?. they are acidic from the grains they feed. just buy high quality grains(the expensive one) well, another tip to be lessen the acids on grains is “soak” the feeds in to the water for at least 8hours and then drain the water and feed them. do not extend more than 8hours bcoz it becomes bubbling and smells bad. and it can be trigger to a e-coli/salmonellia. to make it simple change your feeds.. pardoned my english i just wanna give something to helps you alot. thanks! HATCHMAN

      • #30 by John Narciso on June 16, 2010 - 6:00 pm

        Hello Hatchman,
        Your english is fine!! Thanks for your posts.I hope KP’s birds are well..
        John

  24. #31 by KP on May 11, 2010 - 2:36 pm

    Hi, I am sick and tired with Doctors visits! I dont know where to start, I have lost many birds with unknown disease, I been facing this unknown disease which kill pigeon no matter what you do, even thou I took my birds to many well known avian vet, runs so many tests INTESTINAL PARASITES DIRECT,INTESTINAL PARASITES FLOTATION,CYTOLOGY,BACTRIAL CULTURE/SENSITIVITY\CROP,CLOACA, COCCIDIA,GIARDIA MANY MORE. They found E-coli and prescribed BAYTRIL SUSP plus nystatin for fungus. once I start giving this to birds they lost their appetite they dont eat much one out of 8 died next 2 days even thou I was giving BAYTRIL. Now I have left few kind of sick they start recovering as well start molting which make me so surprise. after 10 days they get back where they started SICK again… SYMPTOMS was vomiting stand on one leg fluffy even they were on heating pad. When ever I feed something they vomit. Can someone please help me what could be this problem. There is no virus found in their system. I have checked canker\worm no problem @ all. The problem was not eating they drink water little bit but the big problem was vomiting.. that made them thin please HELP ME I WILL NOT GO BACK TO VET!!!!

  25. #32 by KP on May 11, 2010 - 2:33 pm

    Hi, I am sick and tired with Doctors visits! I dont know where to start, I have lost many birds with unknown disease, I been facing this unknown disease which kill pigeon no matter what you do, even thou I took my birds to many well known avian vet, runs so many tests INTESTINAL PARASITES DIRECT,INTESTINAL PARASITES FLOTATION,CYTOLOGY,BACTRIAL CULTURE/SENSITIVITY\CROP,CLOACA, COCCIDIA,GIARDIA MANY MORE. They found E-coli and prescribed BAYTRIL SUSP plus nystatin for fungus. once I start giving this to birds they lost their appetite they dont eat much one out of 8 died next 2 days even thou I was giving BAYTRIL. Now I have left few kind of sick they start recovering as well start molting which make me so surprise. after 10 days they get back where they started SICK again… SYMPTOMS was vomiting start one one leg fluffy even they were on heating pad. When ever I feed something they vomit. Can someone please help me what could be this problem. There is no virus found in their system. I have checked canker\worm no problem @ all. The problem was not eating they drink water little bit but the big problem was vomiting.. that made them thin please HELP ME I WILL NOT GO BACK TO VET!!!!

  26. #33 by Jorge on May 10, 2010 - 6:00 am

    Hallo Chris,

    I am new breeding pigeons so this question perhaps seems a little stupid. How can you differenciate cocks / hens? Is there a tip that allows to differenciate males/females with a 100 % accurancy?

    Thank you for your answer,

    Jorge

  27. #34 by Frank Usry on May 1, 2010 - 11:44 am

    I’ve bought some saddle back racers. 3 are females and the male cannot fly. He stays on the floor and cannot fly up to more than 2 feet high. He appears in good health other than that. What should I do with him? Should I allow him to breed?

  28. #35 by Dave Brennan on April 30, 2010 - 3:38 pm

    I am trying to find out about a pigeon disease that causes squeekers to either not grow tail and /or flight feathers or to have them break off as they are going. The disease follows family lines from one generation to the next and may visually affecvt one nest mate and not the other. It appears to be more severe when both parents are siblings or both have this disease in theeir family history going back one or more generations to where there is a common relative. Any assistance or information will be appreciated.

  29. #37 by Homero LLerena on April 30, 2010 - 11:37 am

    Para competir desde 100 millas a 500 millas cual es la proporcion perfecta en carbohidratos, proteinas y grasas en %, muchas gracias.

    • #38 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 1:08 am

      Hola amigo
      mas largo millas usa mas carbhidtratos y electrolytes
      Mas proteinas cuando revuelven

  30. #39 by John Somerville on April 24, 2010 - 10:25 pm

    Chris,

    How do you train your race team to break from the flock and fly to their loft? I live on the short end of our flight line and my birds consistently overfly and then turn around and come back to my loft. Of course, by then too much time has elapsed and the birds clock way down the list.

  31. #40 by Jaco Haasbroek on April 20, 2010 - 11:40 am

    Yes, I would also like to know how you let your birds fly for longer when letting out of the loft.

  32. #41 by john west on April 19, 2010 - 6:56 pm

    Hello chris when I loft fly my pigeon they omly fly for 15 minits is there anythink I can do to keep them flying longer and they don’t go up high thanks for any help its a great site

  33. #42 by Luigi on April 16, 2010 - 4:10 am

    Hello, it is before the time that I write but I always follow to you with much pleasure. Pardoned my English, I am writing using a translator. I wanted you carry a question, has happened to me of having a twisted case of collo in the nest, practically Columbus dell’ age hardly 25 days still in the nest showed what they seemed the symptoms of the PMV is possible? or draft of un’ other type of disease that can show the same symptoms?

  34. #43 by PigeonMaster on April 15, 2010 - 3:06 am

    Whats the bestly recommended fanciers management software online that dont cost anyone ?

    Here a site that I know for now – http://www.pigeonregistry.com – ready to manage your loft and your birds records for free!!!.

  35. #44 by KP on April 8, 2010 - 12:11 am

    Dave Brennan :
    KP, Make sure that they get a bath at least once a week. This helps to prevent the hens from getting egg bound.

    Thanks for the rely. any other advise?

  36. #45 by Dave Brennan on April 5, 2010 - 11:12 pm

    In four years of raising homers, only two birds have been destroyed. My feeling is that after a racing season the birds that did not do well at least tried. Instead of destroying them I build them a retirement loft. I presently have 3 retirement lofts in my back yard. I now have in my possession an 8 week old Red with only one leg. Its left leg was severed more or less between the knee and the ankle. In moving about it has difficulty walking because the left leg slips and dslides. Has anyone ever come up with a means of placing a “shoe” on the leg stub that would be able for the bird to have traction with that leg? Thanks from me and the bird.

    • #46 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 1:05 am

      Wow- how about a splint velcroed on- look at human ideas at your pharmacy

  37. #47 by Bernard on April 5, 2010 - 8:31 pm

    What is the best way to prepare a bird for 500 mile race (training) and food.

  38. #48 by KP on April 5, 2010 - 11:03 am

    KP :
    Hi, Hope I will get help from you guys. I am having very serious problem with my hens, who are getting Egg bound, not one but all the hens. I am feeding them best feed some time I feed them 15% Protein or some time 16%. I have 3 separate coops\Breeders\hens\male. Some of the Hens engage sexually with each other and they laid eggs with no problem,but As soon i put them in breeding pane they have serious egg binding problem. What could be a problem\ I gave them grits\vitamins\apple cinder vinegar\ You prompt reply will be greatly appreciate.
    Thaks
    KP

    • #49 by hatchman on June 16, 2010 - 12:36 pm

      hi KC! just kept the natural way, only feeds.the problem is too much vitamins(A,E,D3) and high protein feeds and also the grits thats why theyre getting egg bound. another problem is “LACK OF EXERCISE” the best program is deworm them so that the laying process will delay automatically. secondly, give B-COMPLEX(performance enhancer) for a while so they dont become lazy and will eager to fly on fly. just alternate your vitamins weekly. for example: this week give the b-complex and by next week multivitamins+minerals. i hope i help you again with my little knowledge. HATCHMAN

  39. #50 by KP on April 5, 2010 - 11:01 am

    Hi, Hope I will get help from you guys. I am having very serious problem with my hens, who are getting Egg bound, not one buy all the hens. I am feeding them best feed some time I feed them 15% Protein or some time 16%. I have 3 separate coops\Breeders\hens\male. Some of the Hens engage sexually with each other and they laid eggs with no problem,but As soon i put them in breeding pane they have serious egg binding problem. What could be a problem\ I gave them grits\vitamins\apple cinder vinegar\ You prompt reply will be greatly appreciate.

    Thaks
    KP

    • #51 by Dave Brennan on April 7, 2010 - 9:31 pm

      KP, Make sure that they get a bath at least once a week. This helps to prevent the hens from getting egg bound.

    • #52 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 1:03 am

      Diet sounds good- do they have enough room to exercise and do they bathe? We’ve lubed the vent on several occasions.

    • #53 by hatchman on June 16, 2010 - 8:55 am

      there are 2ways or kind of gving vit supplmnt. in rainy season i gve Bcomplex vit bcoz they cant fly around and its a “anti-stress buster”. during summer season i gve electrogen D+ its a combination of electrolytes/dextrose/multvm and minerals. i gve once or twice a week. this is more good prevention against diseases than gving antibiotics/medicine. if ur pigeons are healthy u dont have to worry about diseases. pardoned my english.thanks! HATCHMAN

  40. #54 by Johnny on April 4, 2010 - 3:08 pm

    There’s this person in my pigeon club and is pigeons heads are very powdery and he said its like that because they are very, very healthy. If this is true can you please explain it to me because when i ask that person he said it was a secret. Thank You Very Much. Johnny

    • #55 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 1:02 am

      Unless he’s a nut and he’s powdering his birds to mess with your head, it is true healthy birds produce more oils and their feathers are more powdery- good multi hard grains and grit

  41. #56 by Claudian Ro on April 2, 2010 - 12:50 pm

    Please post an article about race tippler pigeons.

  42. #57 by george attard on March 31, 2010 - 12:50 pm

    L have a flat roof on my loft and it is surrounded by a 15 inch border on two and a half sides and 46 or so on the other one and a half sides. I have three sky lights and these were raised about one inch or so but the problem is that the wind was hitting the borders and causing a down draft. I have taken away the gape in the sky light and i have put on each one as shown. I bought four louvers from Natural company and formed them as a box , i put a roof on them with a gape on each side of the slope of the roofbut it seems i still get a down draft. Is there something i can do to improve the system. I can not take the boarder away.

  43. #58 by Allan reyes on March 31, 2010 - 8:54 am

    sir good day im from philippines can you teach me how to make a mixture of feeds bcoz i want to expirience how to win the race thankyou and godbless

  44. #59 by Patrick on March 30, 2010 - 7:25 am

    Hi, how do one know the sex of the young birds upon hatching ? Is there a fixed way of telling ?

  45. #60 by shaikat on March 29, 2010 - 10:01 am

    Iam a new fenscer. How can i marking homing pegion.there r different kind of pigeon in market.how can i aboeat cheeting of salesman.

    • #61 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:59 am

      Check stool for worms, check throat and nasal for canker- yellow cheesy, check droppings for watery and green. Sounds like a blockage or an infection- probably better try antibiotics, sulmet- may have a tumor. Sorry.

    • #62 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 1:00 am

      Talk to his father

  46. #63 by floresito on March 29, 2010 - 6:41 am

    what will i do to a pigeon that is already weak and not eating at all,it only drink lots of water and then after an hour the pegeon vomit all the water and start to go in the corner…pls do write me back right away so i still can do anything to save my pigeon thanks

    • #64 by KP on April 8, 2010 - 12:20 am

      How is your bird doing? Do you still need help?

  47. #65 by darren church on March 28, 2010 - 5:55 pm

    how can i get my cocks scale free and pink brasts and throat

  48. #66 by Jaco Haasbroek on March 28, 2010 - 3:43 pm

    Just a simple question. I am also a newcommer to pigeons. Is there an easy way to tell the sex of a pigeon. I know about the one of the egg laying, but is there another way to tell the difference. Any experts can mail me at haas@telkomsa.net
    Thank you also for those with the interesting questions, looking forward to the answers!

    • #67 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:55 am

      I hate to admit I knew birds pretty well and was still fooled by a great bird once. How I finally realized it was a cock and not a hen was the dance- the cock turns full circles bobbing and blowing and puffing his chest- He turns FULL circles bowing and nodding and dragging his tail to drive the hen. The hen will look innocent and oblivious to him. Size, thickness, brow- can all fool you but usually the cock is larger and thicker in the chest and brow than the hen- but not always! And I’ve never seen their you knows. I don’t even wanna hear you guys staart talking about it!

  49. #68 by Federico E. Fiallos on March 28, 2010 - 1:00 pm

    Dear Chris, Thank you for having this site. I am a Honduran citizen, I live in Tegucigalpa, which is about 3500 feet above sea level, average temparature 28 degrees celsius. I just imported 10 pigeons from Cuba and I am at zero level in my knoledge about pigeons. I also raise canaries, tropical fish, dogs, beef cattle, horses, turkey and some other animal in my ranch.
    With regard to questions I have many. In this part of the world there are many pigeons fanciers; therefore I have many questions, I will start with some:
    1. After how many weeks or months can I start flying my pigeons.
    2. What are the basic supplies that I have to carry on a daily basis, grit, minerals, etc. Can you supply me with a complete list. I have to order most of the products from the US.
    3. What will be your recommendation for a beginer with regar to books, I don’t have time to read a 600 page book, maybe later. So a need two basic books, one with regard to loft design and the other about general care and management of the pigeons.
    4. Can you give the dimmesions of the nests for breeding and for single pigeon.
    Well this is for now. Hope to hear from you.

  50. #69 by gary on March 28, 2010 - 6:58 am

    hey mario…..try to use garlic on your water…..to avoid some virus and infected bacteria on your loft,,,,,and try to clean your loft eveyday……hygiene on our birds are highly recomemnded

  51. #70 by gary on March 28, 2010 - 6:54 am

    is fish oil good for the pigeons especially during races

  52. #71 by gary on March 28, 2010 - 6:53 am

    i need some ways and tips on the best way to condition before and after the race,,,,,and also the best vitamins or even medications…..thanks and i really appreciate ur anwers and even the simpliest way around

  53. #72 by Tony on March 28, 2010 - 6:30 am

    Hello Everyone,

    Can anyone suggest to me a good size loft to bread & race out of for a new-commer with limited funding ?

    • #73 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:51 am

      HA! The story of our lives for a lot of us!!
      6 feet high by 4 or 5 feet wide by no less than 8 feet long if you can handle it. Otherwise you won’t have enough room to keep enough birds to fly a flock- I’m working a similar problem. Mine is I’m also going to have to move it and the birds in a few months!!

  54. #74 by Tony on March 28, 2010 - 6:26 am

    Hello Everyone,

  55. #75 by tahir on March 28, 2010 - 5:34 am

    sir.

    is there any specialised way how to differ mal from female in fancy pegion specially in BUKHARA TRUMPETER. will the sexometer will work in pegions as in veternary cases it is helpfull. wheer fronm i can get this devise?

  56. #76 by gary on March 27, 2010 - 7:15 pm

    is it not bad dyring breedind and mating my cock is into moulting,,,,,do ia have to stop them on mating…

  57. #77 by danilo phantom cruz on March 27, 2010 - 7:44 am

    Hi cris gud pm. what is the best prevention agains pmv it is adviseable to use a vaccine like la sota(ncd vaccine)on my loft thnk you1

  58. #78 by ali on March 27, 2010 - 5:42 am

    Possible, please provide me with a book talking about the disease carrier pigeon.
    Or any documents talking about diseases of the homing pigeon?
    Thank you for helping me.

  59. #79 by Ed on March 26, 2010 - 10:26 am

    I am just getting back into racing pigeons, I had them when I was a teen and now
    Im 62 Alot of things has changed, I really need info on the best waty to build a loft and how many lofts you need. how to set up the trapping system. all that type of info. sure someone can help thanks Ed

    • #80 by John Narciso on April 8, 2010 - 9:07 am

      Hi Ed,
      I’m 53 and just got into it. what helped me alot on building my starter loft was the info on http://www.redroseloft.com .. They have a step by step starter loft page that really answered alot of my questions pertaining to loft design. I hope this helps!
      John

    • #81 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:47 am

      Where are you at? Give me a call this weekend- I can help- 863-273-9419

  60. #82 by Sonu on March 26, 2010 - 10:05 am

    Hi Chris,
    Thanks for the efforts that u take for the fanciers, really appreciated.
    Recently i read both the articles on health, i would like to ask a question releated to it. in my loft chicks of 15-20 days old in nest get pox and whatever i do to save them they are lost in few days after developing scabby proliferations around beak,eyes and vent areas. vaccination is not possible as the chicks are just 2-3 weeks old and still in nest. please suggest some treatment or ask ur vet expert for it. any help will be appreciated. thanks

  61. #83 by Gerry on March 26, 2010 - 9:39 am

    I SUSPECT THAT SOME OF MY BIRDS ARE CARRIERS OF PARATYPHOID. CERTAIN SYMTOMS, SUCH AS LAMENESS IN LEGS AND WINGS ETC HAVE PRESENTED THEMSELVES. MY QUESTION IS, WOULD IT BE ADVISEABLE TO TREAT MY WHOLE FLOCK WITH BAYTRIL FOR TEN DAYS TO MAKE SURE I CLEAN THEM ALL AND THEN, OF COURSE, VACCINATE. GERRY, SOUTH AFRICA.

    • #84 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:46 am

      Find a lab you can mail droppings to- find out if it’s paratyphoid- there must be a vet who can do an analysis?

  62. #85 by russ lowbridge on March 26, 2010 - 8:16 am

    it has come to my attension that fanciers, particully in holland and belgium are pracising the darkness system on old birds. how does this compare to the y.b system i belive it just keeps the o.b.s tight in the feathering as apposed to making them moult like y.b,s is this true,can you explain fully.

  63. #86 by mario on March 26, 2010 - 5:40 am

    can you help me what is the best medecine for the salmonilla virus, my bird have a salmonilla virus. pls help me i dnt know what to do!!
    thank you!

    • #87 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:45 am

      viruses love dark and damp
      keep the loft dry, bright and ventilated. Clean with bleech. Salty grit helps, but medicine- Sulmet will help.

  64. #88 by erinn on March 26, 2010 - 5:09 am

    hi there Cris,

    Kindly comment on this one:

    Pertaining to RECOVERY of racing pigeons( birds on the race ).I’am using Bee pollen tablets,glucose powder,ideal tabs,pink minerals(Vita) on grains upon arriving of my racing team.I learned this things from my friends who are involved with racing.On your opinion do this method that I’am using is an effective one?is there something that I should add or administer? Comments and additional inputs will be highly appreciated..Hope you can help me on this one..
    Thanks a lot Cris,
    Erinn

  65. #89 by shabazkhan on March 26, 2010 - 3:45 am

    hi chirs i live in india i have highflying pigeon but they under R D attack mean neck trun its like pralized on his neck pls show me the right way to prevevt diseas pls ill request u send formula of medicine so i can get in india easily
    thank u pls mail me sweetmujjukhan@yahoo.com

  66. #90 by chandan on March 26, 2010 - 12:01 am

    Hi chris
    some of my young pigeons do “dry cough” frequently the prescribed medicine for respiratory dieaseases tylosin or tetracycline with tylan is not available in our locality so is there any alternative medicine ,and please kindly inform me about treatment for PMV in the initial stage of the diesease

    • #91 by sonu on March 28, 2010 - 11:28 am

      Hi Chandan,
      if ur from india then on any poultry shop u will get the tylosin or tylan. it combined with doxicycline is the best medicine for the respiratory tract infection disease. if tylosin is not available then get the combination of neomycine sulphate with doxycycline from poultry vet shop that will also help in respiratory disease of pigeons.
      hope u will get a better reply from chris.
      sonu
      sonu_mirza123@yahoo.com

  67. #92 by Craig poido on March 25, 2010 - 9:04 pm

    i have a problem which i cannot fix i have some pigeons not eating and just wasting away i have had pigeons a long time and never seen this before i am terrified what ever this is ios going to wipe my entire flock out i have most times being able to fix these problems early on i bought a lot of sale pigeons from differentlofts but that was months ago now the rescyled pigeons are dying i just dont no what to do i need help with this problem before it kills all my pigeons poido

    • #93 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:41 am

      Be very sure your birds don’t have worms! Check the droppings and also autopsy one of the dead away from your other birds- lay the carcass on its back- go in through the vent using scissors if you want to be neat, but open the birds abdominal cavity popping open the keel like a soda can and pull out the intestines- Round worms may be eating your birds to death. Otherwise there is the old “going light” which I’ll allow an elder veteran to expand on.

  68. #94 by carlos on March 25, 2010 - 8:42 pm

    Thanks for all the invaluable information!!!…I live in central California. it has been close to 2 months since i finished building my loft..and still empty… can you guide me how to get at least two pair of good pigeons for a reasonable price?..or if you know some body kind enough to donate a pair?… (I called the fresno club like three weeks ago, but I have not hear from them since..)
    thank you very much…..

  69. #95 by kimtian de castro on March 25, 2010 - 8:21 pm

    dear sir, what is the right pigeon feeder do i have to use for my birds? they always messing with their feeds by by their pooh, pls. give me an good idea or design of a pigeon feeder.thank you very much sir.

  70. #96 by baltazar on March 25, 2010 - 6:17 pm

    Hi Chris,
    I want to build a Loft which is 5ft deep, 6ft length and 6ft in heigth, i just want to know how many pigeons should be so it wont be crowded, can you include also boxes and perches.
    ThAnks
    Bal

    • #97 by John Narciso on April 7, 2010 - 10:00 pm

      Hello Bal,
      I don’t know if anyone has answered your question as of yet, however that is one of the questions I had some time ago..
      The answer that I got was 1-1/2 to 2 square feet of space per bird. A 5ft x 6ft loft will give you 30square feet.At 2 square feet per bird this would comfortably accomodate 15 pigeons. After much research, one of the key issues in maaintaining a healthy loft is to not overcrowd the birds, as they would be more succeptable to disease.
      I hope this help you.
      Regards,
      John Narciso

  71. #98 by Craig on March 25, 2010 - 1:27 pm

    Chris,

    I read every single article you put out here. I went through the first season of racing in Chennai and flew birds upto 400 kms (three of them of which 2 returned) so we are happy about it albeit the next day only. But I am sure with the tips you provide, we should see some better results. I look after them more like pets so it makes me happy that I could give them utmost care after taking your tips. If the results come, they are a bonus for me. Thanks Again.

  72. #99 by cuan mulqueeny on March 25, 2010 - 11:54 am

    Hi melvin

    thanx for pointing this out . dont know how i missed it . will give it a good read.

  73. #100 by Phillip on March 25, 2010 - 11:02 am

    Anybody in the Sydney area (Ozzie)interested in a dozen or so fantails?
    Free to good home (new neighbours)…
    phillipwalsh@gmail.com

    • #101 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:34 am

      new neighbors- like… new a.h.’s??

      • #102 by John Narciso on May 1, 2010 - 11:12 am

        sounds like it!!

  74. #103 by PigeonRacingFan on March 25, 2010 - 10:26 am

    Hey All!

    Thanks for all the questions so far, I’m working double time to try and get them all answered for you. I had a few people ask about Blue tongues in pigeons so I posted a short post on it, you can read it here:
    http://pigeonracingpigeons.com/2010/03/25/pigeons-with-blue-tongue-or-blue-tissue/

    Hope it helps.

    I also received a few questions on loft design so I’m working on a loft design article series right now and will be posting that in a few days as well.

    Thanks again for all your questions and thanks to all who are answering some of them I really appreciate it, keep it up 🙂

    Yours in the sport
    -Chris
    http://www.pigeonsite.com

    • #104 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:33 am

      I have a question…
      What is the smallest loft design anyone has seen that works well with 12 flyers?
      I’m raising some young guys I already have flying and OI expect to move them about a mile when we get our property together (we’re renting now). My intention is to take the birds we already have flying and teach them to trap into this small loft we can easily trailer to the new location- the birds will of course home to the loft as was repeatedly proven by the pigeon corps during WW’s I and II

  75. #105 by jr malilay on March 25, 2010 - 9:02 am

    hi sir,can you a tip what is the good supplement during racing period?and can you email me a picture of a pure van den broucke and andre litaer pigeon….here is my email address malilayjr@yahoo.com

  76. #106 by Antonio on March 25, 2010 - 8:36 am

    hi Chris,

    I have some pigeons with blue tip of the tongue, would want to know the problem

    Thanks.Antonio

  77. #107 by Tomor on March 25, 2010 - 4:50 am

    Hi.Im interested to learm more of how to race pigeons through mountain. So I live in the town but the vay of comming back the pigeon from the race is that they must cross through canions of a high mountains up to 2500 met. What do I need is: if anyone can explain any tecnics how to race them through that terrain.
    Thanks. Tomor

  78. #109 by baba on March 25, 2010 - 3:23 am

    i live in chennai southindia i want very good homers from good bloodline from where can i buy good racing homers can i buy from other countries what is the procedure information and help in this will be very useful for a novice in this sport kindly reply regards baba

  79. #110 by Gary welch on March 25, 2010 - 2:41 am

    I have A bird setting on her nest how many can they have in A year’s time and what should I do to help the new hatched out Thanks Gary

  80. #111 by Sahar Bano on March 25, 2010 - 12:20 am

    I need the Scedule of Vaccination for different diseases

  81. #112 by dursum dzafic on March 24, 2010 - 10:17 pm

    how i need kno long short midle distance bird by sizes or

    • #113 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:27 am

      Great question also!
      The longer the wing the slower the rate of wing beats = better longer distance
      The shorter the wing, the faster the wing beats and generally faster and better short distance.
      (General rule, right?)

  82. #114 by Randall Carney on March 24, 2010 - 8:58 pm

    I’ve been trying to follow Chris Smith’s Pigeon Racing Exercise and Training Program, but had a question about some of the products he uses.

    Can you get dicestal pills here in the states?
    And what is a knifepoint of aloes?

    Are there substitutes for these items?

    Thanks
    Randall

  83. #115 by noli on March 24, 2010 - 7:11 pm

    sir good day, i will send my bird’s picz and tell me if this is an original waterhouse beckaert.coz i have mixed feelings. again, thank you so much. NOLI Danofrata, Philippines

  84. #116 by Melvin Knight on March 24, 2010 - 3:52 pm

    Chris
    Can you post a listing of different strains of pigeons that are better suited for the short(sprint races), middle distance birds and long distance families?
    Mel.

  85. #117 by Melvin Knight on March 24, 2010 - 3:47 pm

    Greetings cuan mulqueeny:
    This site has excellent articles and information in regard to setting up a double widowhood race team. Also there are many different methods on line which may be adopted for initiating a double widowhood race team. Choose a system that will work for your schedual and own particular needs.

    Mel

  86. #118 by cuan mulqueeny on March 24, 2010 - 3:16 pm

    gooday all
    i would like to start one loft on widowhood. i have looked for info and have been told about the procedures of getting the birds ready for the loft. this does not tell me how to get it started seperating birds. pairing picking and traing. i would like to use double widowood. does any one have some info or websites were i can find this info.

  87. #119 by jeremy {jerryloft} capetown SA on March 24, 2010 - 2:59 pm

    hey chris i thank you for your wonderful pigeon site i learned so much sins joining your site i,m adicted to it looking forward to many more many thanks i adopted you as my mentor.chris my question is the pigeonmotor here in capetown south africa they say if the motor is not straight like a curtin thats pulled close you might as well kill that bird the way i understand it is the motor back in throat between what we call the curtin i,m not talking of the slit in the mouth chris what do you say because if thats the truth i must kill nearly all my birds waiting to hear from you ,yours in sport jeremy

  88. #120 by Hannes on March 24, 2010 - 1:28 pm

    HI Chris ,Koos Botha want to know about the feathers of his racing team the person that can help him is Jack Barkel of South Africa i didnt know his e-mail adress.
    Nick about the ventalation of the loft is the fresh air flows for excample: under the front and back if your loft is an openning that the fresh air can flows in and opennings at the roof side in front aswell at the back so wen the fresh air flows in at the low side the warm air flows out ay the top so that there in the loft is all ways fresh air ,you musnt smell the pigeons that what how my pien loft whas .At the buttom ao the loft a 50mm openning aruond on the floor whas open and didnt smell the pigeons .There are so many idees you must test which idee is right for your loft.Here in South Africa is warm wearther diffrend from other countries

  89. #121 by Nick Demas on March 24, 2010 - 12:45 pm

    Hello Chris, I have read the articles from Insider about”Space Age Ventilation” and it sounds great. I would love to see a diagram about this system. Exactly where would intake pipes go. How low or high on either side of roof? Where would exhaust duct work go? I understand the math but not the heights and exact location.

    On a Natural”Ventilation System” everyone tells you something different.They all agree cool air comes in from the front as low as possible. Then what, Warm air go’s out front just under roof or doe’s it exit above perches on back wall? I just wish some one would show a diagram on the proper way to obtain maximun air movement. I am talking about a loft 10’Wx20’Lx8’H with a roof that comes to a peak. Also a loft same size with a flat roof 6’H in the back and 7′ in the front

    Thanks, Nick Demas
    Please show a diagram or picture if possible.

  90. #122 by Beto on March 24, 2010 - 12:41 pm

    Hi to everyone.
    I would like to know some “tips” about how to prepar pigeons to long races (+ than 380 miles … of couse with do days release).
    At the same time is there anyone that could give me also some tips about how to prepare the birds for one day releases but with hot weather.
    Thanks and good luck to all.
    Beto

  91. #123 by willy on March 24, 2010 - 12:23 pm

    what causes the eyes to turn blood red ,an birds cant see? in pigeons an chickens?what cures or treats it? an howd they get it? can it be prevented?they all dont get it only had 3 pigeons an 2 chickens.

  92. #124 by Robert on March 24, 2010 - 12:01 pm

    Do you know of some different plans of how to build pigeon lofts?

    • #125 by John Narciso on March 24, 2010 - 3:50 pm

      Hi Robert.
      I don’t know what size you’ll want but what really helped me were the articles that Chris posts, and another site for “beginner lofts” that really helped(I’m a newby just started to build my first loft)is at http://www.redroselofts.com. They have a “really easy” how to step by step and once you get the basic idea down, then you can adjust to suit your needs.But again, that really helped me a bunch..
      Good Luck!
      John Narciso

  93. #126 by Gille on March 24, 2010 - 11:43 am

    Looks like Chris has alot of questions. I’m no expert but I share what i know and hope it helps.I googled and found this for Antonio, “When tissues that are normally red turn blue, this is because there is less oxygen in these tissues. This can have several reasons. This can have several reasons. For example when the tip of the tongue of a pigeon is cold, there will be less blood circulation and the tip will appear blue. For example when the tip of the tongue of a pigeon is cold, there will be less blood circulation and the tip will appear blue. It doesn’t have to mean anything. It does not have to mean anything. If it’s associated with blue flesh it can be a problem certainly for birds that have to perform. If it’s associated with blue flesh it can certainly be a problem for birds that have to perform. Again it can be caused by multiple factors like inadequate nutrition/supplementing, inadequate training, dehydration (shock in extreme cases), etc… Again it can be caused by multiple factors like inadequate nutrition / Supplementing, inadequate training, dehydration (shock in extreme cases), etc. .. ” from http://www.pipa.be/de/newsandarticles/ask_the_vet/3880

    John a 4 x 8 or 32 foot square loft canhold 16 about birds. They say 1.5 to 2 square feet of floor space is needed per bird. Bylaws vary from place to place, here it’s 2 sq ft per bird.

    My first question has to do with young birds placed on the darkening system. I’ve noticed that my birds are starting to molt alot of little feathers and it’s only march 24th. I recall this from last year but thought it was due to the birds being inside where it was heated back then. Turns out not so. Since even the yb’s are molting will it be hard on them if they are put in the dark as this first molt ends? Having the first two rounds put in together would be better for me as i only have one yb loft. I’d like the second round to have time to orientate flying around outside the loft first and this means the first round has to wait until this first molt is finished and a few weeks more. Will it be ok to put them in the dark together?
    The second question is how long can you keep a egg and still slid it under a hen? I’ve been told they can stay at room tempature I believe it was but no one seems certain how long.
    Thanks Chris. Some times I can’t get to all the information you send my way when it arrives, but it’s all apreciated and saved the in a special folder so i can read them when i get time. 🙂

  94. #127 by satchel on March 24, 2010 - 11:43 am

    is the moulting time of our pigeons here in the Philippines,the same as the birds from different countries?

    • #128 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:23 am

      Another great question!!
      Moulting believe it or not is brought on by light more than temperature!!
      Twice a year your birds will drop their feathers in a shedding and replacing process. Ours in the eastern United States moult in spring and fall (the changing light). Feathers are made of protein so be sure your birds get good nutrition during the moult. It is also a difficult uncomfortable time like a female’s period or even a flu kind of aching as the body pushes out those feathers. Be kind during the moult.

  95. #129 by Bill on March 24, 2010 - 11:05 am

    Cn anyone supply any information on the Louis Cooreman Pigeons especially the Grizzle line.

    • #130 by John Narciso on March 24, 2010 - 2:37 pm

      Thanks very much !!

  96. #131 by adri strauss on March 24, 2010 - 10:36 am

    Hallo Chris

    Is it possible to supply me with information of the de norra strain. Here in south africa are still fanciers who is doing well with them.
    thanks
    adri

  97. #132 by John Narciso on March 24, 2010 - 10:36 am

    Hi Chris
    I am a beginner, and close to building my starter loft. How many birds can “comfortably” be housed in a 4ft wide x 8ft long by 6ft high ?
    Thanks.
    John

    • #133 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:17 am

      I believe the rule is a square foot of floor space for each bird. So 4 x 8 = 32
      If you set the nests 2 feet wide by 1 foot high- each nest housing a pair, So 16 nest boxes
      four tiers high and 4 nests wide. Also offer adequate perch spaces so your birds will be settled and calm. you should probably have 16 or more perches either box type or v perches.

      • #134 by John Narciso on May 1, 2010 - 12:12 pm

        In general, how deep should the boxes be?

      • #135 by John Narciso on May 1, 2010 - 12:13 pm

        Thanks Gregory. How deep should the nesting boxes be?

  98. #136 by ARTEM on March 24, 2010 - 10:05 am

    Wher do you look first in pigeon and say this is good or bad?
    In your line breeding what you mean SIR and DAM (is it frist pear which you start).
    If i want my pigeons fly more than 2 hours what is diet and regulation?
    What colour pigeons like more?

    TANKS VERY MUCH.

    • #137 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:12 am

      There is an interesting question! Do pigeons prefer a specific color- as in a color to calm them and invite them down to trap faster? A color to promote better eating or breeding? What an idea!

  99. #138 by Antonio on March 24, 2010 - 9:59 am

    hi Chris,

    excuse me if I have not made to understand
    I have some pigeons with blue tip of the tongue, would want to know the problem

  100. #139 by DINESH SHARMA on March 24, 2010 - 9:28 am

    my question is
    i open my pigeon in morning 8 AM TO 10 AM BUT MY PIGEON NOT MEMORISING MY LOFT AND I LOST THEM PLEASE GIVE ME ANY METHODE SO THEY COME HOME RETURN.
    please reply at my email dinesh14oct@gmail.com

    • #140 by Gregory Brooks on May 1, 2010 - 12:10 am

      First, the pigeons you are trying to train to home to your loft must either have been raised there or brought there at no more than several weeks of age if possible. Otherwise it is very difficult to settle older birds. If they raise young there they will be highly motivated to return to mate, nest and young. Make sure when you release the birds in the morning they are good and hungry before they go out- nothing since the evening before! Also you can put a settling basket or settling cage on your landing board so your young birds get used to the area where they trap in. Do you have traps? see Foy’s Pigeon Supply or another pigeon supply store and get pigeon traps- gates that allow the birds to come in but blocks them from going out. Put anise on the trap bobs. gently push the hungry young birds through the traps several times each day and carry them around your property so they visualize all about and see the approach to the landing. you can set them in a cage high up also to allow them to see their area. Also be sure they are healthy- clear eye and nasal ceres- not grey, clear pink throats, not mucousy or with yellow canker, good solid droppings- not green and watery.

  101. #141 by DINESH SHARMA on March 24, 2010 - 9:19 am

    my question is
    i open my pigeon in morning 8 AM TO 10 AM BUT MY PIGEON NOT MEMORISING MY LOFT AND I LOST THEM PLEASE GIVE ME ANY METHODE SO THEY COME HOME RETURN.

    • #142 by Loft2968 on March 26, 2010 - 9:26 am

      Hi dinesh,

      release them at around 10 – 11am so your pigeons wom’t fly high. They will only fly within your area due heat condition. Put water near the entrance of your loft.

      loft 2968

  102. #143 by Mark on March 24, 2010 - 9:05 am

    There are products on the market to use in the nasal and eyes before races to help clear he airway. Is there a formula an individual can use to make their own drops?

    • #144 by Gregory Brooks on April 30, 2010 - 11:59 pm

      Beware of superstitious behavior even among seasoned veterans and remember if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. you can find cold remedies if you have something minor going on respiratorially, but unless you have diagnosed a bacterial infection antibiotics are unwarranted for example. Be sure of the basics first- always fresh clean water, always dry, clean dust-free feeds, dry, lit and well-ventilated loft, nest and perch areas, don’t let your birds drink from gutters and stagnant puddles and don’t over-crowd your birds. There are eye drops, but you shouldn’t need them. To promote draining through the eye, sinus, throat you can drop simple “tear” solutions available inexpensively from all the major pharmacies- a sterile, very light saline solution a few drops in each eye will pass through. There was a gentleman who sold this knowledge and I think he promoted the use of some ancient remedy for eye infections- like silver something- but you don’t need it.

  103. #145 by mike on March 24, 2010 - 8:56 am

    Hi,I would like to find how pigeon fanciers from across the world defend their pigeons from the dreaded hawk attacks.At present what seems to work for me is a flashing orange light that rotates.

  104. #146 by Bob Schaefer on March 24, 2010 - 8:34 am

    I wort a letter to the news papers in support of the sport. PETA is trying to stop Mike Tyson from going on the Air and i would like others of us who support this to write letters to the editors in their comunits supporting this sport, is that doable?

    this is the kind of prss this sport need to revive it out in the public.

    thanks

  105. #147 by EMILIO on March 24, 2010 - 8:07 am

    Hi !!!

    My question is a very basic one ,but causes many problems for me .My young birs won’t eat ,just picking at the food how can you make them eat more ?
    Thank you EMILIO

  106. #148 by Koos Botha on March 24, 2010 - 7:41 am

    Hi Chris, when you breed late breds and want to race them, you always have the problem of them dropping primary flights 7-10 during racing. i now heard that guys cut no 7-10 flight about 40 -50 mm from the top and then after 14 days they remove no 7 and then after a while the no 8 and so they go on until all is done. i have check this birds and see that 7-10 is not as long as what they were supposed to be if they would have dropped them naturaly. Is it OK to remove them or must you leave them and only race them next year, or is their another method what you can do this. I have not tried light or darkenining systems, as our time is differnt from Europe and i dont know the right schedule to follow.

  107. #149 by ronaldo on March 24, 2010 - 7:41 am

    i live in conyers GA..zip code 30094..i like to know who is the closest one for me to purchase pigeons from please.thx please reply at my email ronaldobonachela@bonachelagroup.com

  108. #150 by Roger B. on March 24, 2010 - 7:36 am

    I am looking foreward to getting back into flying and now I just got my loft building home and are getting ready to finish the inside of it. If anyone has ideas of how to lay it out would be helpful. The building is 10×14 with a service door on the side of the loft and one window next to the door, I will be install 3 more on. the south side and vents below. Any help for the inside would be great???

  109. #151 by nana p on March 24, 2010 - 7:34 am

    Hi there

    very cool site, just wanted to ask, im very interested in breeding and wanted to know which lines (cross breeding) has worked. there are some programs like g1 in horseracing which looks at past champions breedings and maps these to potential matings so u can make an educated “mating” based on previous stats. i know breeding isnt an exact science but it definately is interesting 🙂

    your comments

    thanks
    nana p

  110. #152 by Pramod on March 24, 2010 - 6:57 am

    Hi this site is really great and one of the best thing to happen for me…I would like to know if there is any similar site availble for high flying pigeons as I have them as well.

    • #153 by PigeonRacingFan on March 24, 2010 - 7:51 am

      Hey Pramod,

      Thanks for the kind words about the site 🙂 At the moment this site is focused on pigeon racing however I will be adding information on other pigeon related topics such as fancy pigeons and high flyers. Alot of the information on this site such as health, disease, feeding and breeding will work for other breeds as well you can use that info and adapt it for your high flyers. But for now you can simply google high flying pigeons there were a few great sites that came up.

      Sorry I dont have much information for you right now, I hope that helped.
      Thanks again,
      -Chris
      http://www.pigeonsite.com

  111. #154 by Raymond Grech on March 24, 2010 - 6:55 am

    Hi Chris,

    Iodine is a very good mineral for Man and animals. Can please you shed some light on Iodine and pigeons?

    • #155 by PigeonRacingFan on March 24, 2010 - 7:31 am

      Hey Raymond, thanks form the question here’s alittle solution for supplementing iodine for your birds. I will be posting an article on iodine and pigeons soon.

      Iodine: Our pigeons get their iodine intake from their feed, and the level of iodine in seed is directly relatable to the levels of iodine in the soil in which the seed was grown. Some areas have low iodine levels in the soil so iodine can be supplemented. Iodine is found in yeast or can be supplemented in the water. To do this, dilute 2 ml of Lugol’s iodine into 30 ml of water to make a concentrated solution. Then add 4 drops of this concentrated solution to each litre of drinking water.

      Also when treating your birds with antibiotics because of disease the antibiotics will deplete the intestinal flora of micro-organisms which in turn will make it easier for fungi and yeasts to colonize the intestine and this type of infection is very difficult to treat. Using iodine containing products may prevent colonization by yeasts and fungi. Using Iodine drops has also been said to help with higher fertility rates.

      Hope it helps
      -Chris
      http://www.pigeonsite.com

  112. #156 by Antonio on March 24, 2010 - 6:51 am

    Hello Chris,

    I am an amateur of pigeons of Naples Italy
    I have found very interesting your articles
    thanks to your site web many giovanni are able a lot of impare on the pigeons
    I would want to ask you a suggestion the I have different pigeons
    have the blue language I would want to know the cause

    Best regards

    • #157 by PigeonRacingFan on March 24, 2010 - 7:35 am

      Hey Antonio thanks for the question, I don’t understand what you mean by “blue language” can you explain and I will try to get an answer for you.

      Thanks
      -Chris
      http://www.pigeonsite.com

      • #158 by EMILIO on March 24, 2010 - 8:00 am

        BLUE TONGUE

    • #159 by Gregory Brooks on April 30, 2010 - 11:47 pm

      Antonio- It is wonderful to see a person who loves racing pigeons writing a question from so far away and how wonderful you are writing in a foreign tongue (I think)- God Bless You!
      -Greg Brooks

  113. #160 by John Bologa on March 24, 2010 - 6:51 am

    Dear Sir; I have a bird that has a large soft look like a tumor next to her rear, I took it to the Vet she drained, and it just got bigger over time, at first I though the hen was hen bound but not so. Let me know if u can help. Thx JB

    • #161 by PigeonRacingFan on March 24, 2010 - 7:17 am

      John Bologa :

      Dear Sir; I have a bird that has a large soft look like a tumor next to her rear, I took it to the Vet she drained, and it just got bigger over time, at first I though the hen was hen bound but not so. Let me know if u can help. Thx JB

      Hey John,
      Thanks for the question, would you be able to take a picture of the bird in question and email it to me at pigeonracingpigeons@yahoo.com so I can get a better look?

      Thanks
      -Chris
      http://www.pigeonsite.com

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