The Racing Pigeon Loft Part 2

The Racing Pigeon Loft Part 2

When the air inside the loft is not as fresh as the outside air, then there is a ventilation problem.

The traditional Australian loft is open at the front and gets good race results in areas with low humidity (non-coastal and inland regions, South Australia etc.). Such a loft requires little other ventilation other than vents on the back and side walls of the loft. Place the vents under the perches rather than at the top, so that the air does not pass over the birds resting in the perches. The flow of air over the birds created by incorrectly placed vents is referred to as a draft and causes illness by preventing the birds from resting.

The creation of proper ventilation in enclosed lofts is more difficult to achieve and in dry areas it is often better to avoid enclosed lofts. However, in high humidity and very cold areas the loft must be enclosed at night to maintain the form of the fit race team, although it is opened up as much as possible during the day. The best lofts can be opened up during the day and closed up at night, when it is raining or during cold humid weather.

More ventilation is required in closed lofts than open lofts. Ceiling or wall ventilation fans are often used to improve the circulation inside the loft. Vents placed on the back and side walls near the floor are open during the day and on warm nights and closed when it is wet or cold. Double-check the quality of the air inside an enclosed loft by asking an asthmatic friend to stand inside and pass an opinion as to the freshness of the air.

Pigeon numbers
Overcrowded lofts do not race to their true potential. Overcrowding increases fighting, creates restlessness and increases the staleness of the air. Overcrowded lofts have consistently good droppings, although the birds may be healthy. Often healthy nutty droppings return when the numbers are decreased. The best race results occur when the numbers are kept around 25 birds per 6 foot x 6 foot by 6 foot loft.

Wetness in the loft
Waterproofing the loft is a priority, because wet floors endanger the health of the birds. Fit race birds immediately lose form and often succumb to coccidiosis three days after the floor gets wet. Disinfecting or cleaning the loft using water must be reserved for warm days or allowed to dry whilst the birds are out exercising. Concrete slabs hold water and are not recommended for race lofts and must be designed to drain and dry quickly when used beneath elevated flights during the race season.

Clean loft
Pigeons love a clean loft and rest better when the perches and floor are cleaned free of droppings. Sand on the floor looks good, but is not recommended during the cold months of the racing season. At this time the birds may suddenly over-engorge on it and lose form because of the resulting “gut ache”. Pigeons love to lie down on straw but it must be perfectly fresh, clean and be free of dust or moisture. Black marks and a musty smell to the straw indicates mould on the straw, which can damage the pigeons airsacs when inhaled.

The loft is cleaned at least once and even better twice daily during the racing season.

Twice daily cleaning allows the fancier to monitor the health of the race team very closely. A change in the droppings is then recognised very early and the appropriate remedy (either rest, water cleanser, medicines, loft heaters etc.) can be quickly and effectively prescribed. The design of the loft must be such that scraping is made as easy as possible. The floor should be perfectly flat and smooth and the perches must be wide enough and brought out from the wall for easy scraping.

Loft position
The best lofts are positioned in the yard to get the most amount of sunlight from the day during the racing season. In Australia, the best direction to face the loft is between North West to North East, because the sun moves northward during the winter months of racing. Lofts need as much sunlight as possible. They also need space to breathe fresh air and are best away from trees, fences and be elevated.

The resting pigeon
The best designed lofts create an environment that is so relaxing that during the day and at night-time the birds lie down on the ground or on the perch with their wings hanging loose. The compartment sizes should not be too large, but small and low enough for the fancier to catch the birds easily without chasing them around the loft. The race team is tamer and more relaxed in a loft with smaller compartments. The best size sections are 6 inches higher than the fancier, 6 feet deep and 5 feet wide.

Loft materials for ceilings, walls and floors
In high humidity areas the ceiling and walls of the pigeon loft must be lined if consistent racing results are to be enjoyed. Masonite and wood are better insulators than metal. The best floor for racing is made of wood (form ply or marine ply) because it is a good insulator, stays warm, and is smooth for effective scraping. It can be unscrewed and replaced with wired floors during the off season if required. Wood floors are harder to disinfect. Concrete floors are not recommended in the race loft because they are cold and retain moisture, but they are good for the breeding loft and can be used for the race loft if they are centrally heated. In high humidity areas wire floors are not recommended for racing because the droppings beneath the wire accumulate moisture and grow fungus, which causes moulding disease. They are acceptable in dry areas and during the breeding season, but must be treated for fungus and insects regularly.

The Racing Pigeon Loft Part 1

The Racing Pigeon Loft Part 2 by Dr. Rob Marshall

Learn the champions secret winning pigeon racing formula

Pigeon Racing Pigeons


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  1. #1 by Ferenc Marocik on February 15, 2011 - 2:42 pm

    Good luck with cinnamon, turmeric, neem ect., especially in racing season. I have been experimenting with all these herbs and spices for years. The spices may be contaminated and they sit in warehouses and store shelves for years. The MOST reliable in fresh form is garlic and onions together. Another combo Oil of oregano, goldenseal and echinacea extract together. I know that cinnamon is good but it is better to buy cinnamon sticks and grind them yourself. Also chek out this web site.

  2. #2 by Susan on January 31, 2011 - 9:55 pm

    very good informative information, Thanks so much!

  3. #3 by angelo rey on January 17, 2011 - 9:57 pm

    verry imformative…..tnx

  4. #4 by garry middleton on January 6, 2011 - 4:28 pm

    lots of good ideas.Glad to find this site.have a chicken coop that I am keeping my birds in while i build the new loft.

  5. #5 by Chuck Logan on January 2, 2011 - 11:01 am

    Hey Chris,
    I’m 64 and all my 9 children are grown, when I was a young man I had a 40′ loft of pretty nice pigeon’s. I am now drawing up plan’s for a small 8’x8′ loft, 1/2 for breeder’s and 1/2 for racer’s. Every article I’ve read on your site has been a really huge influence on my plan’s. Thank you so much for all your loft and pigeon skills and all of your encouragement.
    Your’s In The Sport,
    Chuck Logan

  6. #6 by aceB on January 1, 2011 - 3:49 pm

    Very informative reading ,I’ll certainly continue to read. Many thanks for all the info , I also find the replies to the articles helpful, thanks all..

  7. #7 by Rafał on December 31, 2010 - 1:44 pm

    that very interesting, good article. Thank you very much !!

  8. #8 by Arif on December 11, 2010 - 5:19 am

    Very good idea and great discussion on Loft planning. Hope to implement the idea for building new lofts.

  9. #9 by Imran on December 11, 2010 - 2:10 am

    Hey chriss,

    Its a great job done by you,you has showed the exact graph of loft,how it should be with exact picture,i will wait for more help from you.

  10. #10 by Vincent G.Jimenez on December 10, 2010 - 7:12 pm

    I’m from the Philippines, I find it very helpful to me in improving my birds the information being send to my email by pigeon insider.

    thank you very much,

  11. #11 by michael on November 14, 2010 - 9:38 am

    what a peice very informative

  12. #12 by Jaco Venter on October 5, 2010 - 11:06 pm

    I am busy building my loft at the moment, i was a fancier for 9 years then stopped for 4. What do you think will be the best floor for a loft in South Africa, I alwaysed used a cement floor but read a lot of articles and also on your website that wood is the way to go. Iam near mountains and it gets a bit misty. What do you guys suggest

  13. #13 by pij lover on September 23, 2010 - 2:43 am

    I am new at this so i am going through your articles one by one and i found them really informative and helpful.

  14. #14 by Khalid on August 24, 2010 - 3:46 pm

    very interesting articles with lots of reach information.
    keep up your good work.

  15. #15 by Whitney on August 11, 2010 - 6:08 pm

    Again, this is an excellent article. I am so glad that I subscribed to this newsletter!

  16. #16 by lesgilbert on August 11, 2010 - 3:17 pm

    very good article on loft ventilation,fresh air and sunshine are the only two things that we get for nothing for our pigeons we should make good use of both of them in our pigeon loft.ilook forward to the next article.message for michael spiegelberg, i have used apple vinegar for five years now and it is very good for young birds as e.coli can not live in an acidic enviroment.i use 5ml witch is a tea spoon to 1 litre of water every day until the young birds have had 3 races .then about three times a week until the birds finish is a very good product, i hope this is helpful for you.

  17. #17 by lesgilbert on August 10, 2010 - 1:14 pm

    very interesting articles with lots of good information. keep up your good work.

  18. #18 by Michael Spiegelberg on August 1, 2010 - 5:28 am

    Oh and I was told 2 teaspoons for every 2 gallons of water – sorry forgot to include that in my post above this one , again Thanks to everyone , Peace ! ( Mike and Family )

  19. #19 by Michael Spiegelberg on August 1, 2010 - 5:26 am

    Beautiful Job explaining Ventilations in the Loft and such as I am In The Middle of Building my new loft and this Forum has been of alot of help and its also very nice to get some of the perks besides the loft stuff, Like the boiling of Cinnamon – I’ll have to give it a shot – I was told 2 teaspoonfuls of Apple Vinegar workd for killing bacteria in the pigeons water also and this is what i have been doing , I do The apple vinegar for 48 Hrs. and the regular tap water for 48 hrs and just keep doing that , does anyone know if this is a good remedy as i learned it off of a local forum here in Minnesota ? Thank You all for always having Good Information it is truely appreciated ! Mike and Family ( Backyard Hobbiest )

  20. #20 by ajit on July 31, 2010 - 3:16 am

    thank for the information

  21. #21 by liam gaynor on July 15, 2010 - 3:58 am

    thanks chris for the great lnfo part 2 of the pigeon insider
    it has great tips keep up th good work

  22. #22 by jamie rodriguez on July 6, 2010 - 7:25 pm

    Thanks for the Great Info. Chris! Keep up the Good Work you are doing!

  23. #23 by Mircia Dobrin on June 18, 2010 - 6:22 am

    I like it. I like the architecture and the topics. It is very clear that the cleaning is crucial. What is hapaning with the health of the fanciers entering into an environment not very well cleaned and with a high degree of ventilation?
    Kind regards,

  24. #24 by Royal on May 18, 2010 - 8:41 am

    First I like to say THANKS,all my life i’ve had pigeons being from NEW YORK the BRONX,I always kept alot of birds 600 to 900 on the roof Flights, Tiplets i’ve never really liked Homers until i moved down to FLORIDA. Reading racing-pigeon loft2 has relly open my eyes i’ve come to a hard but necessary decision in my loft. Theres just way to many pigeons and i’m trying to take racing pigeons serious. My plan now is to get rid of half of what i have which without counting just looking seems to be 400 to 600 birds that’s flights,tiplets & homers I plan on keeping 1 pair of flights and 2 pair of tiplets and if the homers don’t race no more or i’m not trying to breed from them there out of here that should allow me to have 150 to 200 pigeons which will include young birds for the year. I remember when i first started with the homers i had less then 50 my young bird team was 27 at the end of the season i still had 21 left that was 2003 I still 16 that I’ve made my foundation birds. Theres so much information that a fancier needs to keep healthy birds as well as winning birds that you will not get from your club members they will always give you scatter info.Ive hooked up with a gentleman called Rich Ross in just a few e-mails and conversation on the phone i’ve learnt more about racing,training,breeding etc.then i’ve learnt since i started.
    Thanks again and I’m looking forward to your next article.


  25. #25 by Dinesh on May 11, 2010 - 10:31 pm

    Do not over boil the cinnomon folks! – add it just when the water has boiled and but the heat off,let the brew settle.

  26. #26 by Ken on May 11, 2010 - 8:58 pm

    Thank you for all the information.It has been a great help!!

  27. #27 by La'szlo' To'th on May 9, 2010 - 3:00 am

    Hello Chris !

    I just like to tell you that I do enjoy reading your articles , and that I fond it wary interesting , also admire your love for the sport . Loved the story how it started , I guess we all have a so called story , it happens to as just like magic , I was 10 or 11 when I got hocked and the bond just gets stronger and stronger .And the beauty of it is that you never stop learning when comes to pigeon racing it is full of mystery , the excitement is endless .Thank you for sharing all this with the world , and I think we all can learn something from you .Keep up the good work ,all the best to you !


  28. #28 by chris dahl on April 22, 2010 - 4:44 pm

    thanks spiderman. not that i am planning doing that with a simple 8×8 loft, but just curious if you could train birds to use seperate traps. interesting enough. since mine will only be 8×8, i will not have enough space to put a divider in it. although i am planning on having regular homers, and some whites for hopefully wedding releases, IF and i say IF, the white and dark colored birds happen to pair up, when they make eggs, i’ll just swap them out with dummy eggs. i want to have both dark and whites, but i don’t have the room for a partition. is ther anything wrong with just doing some population control with the eggs if the different colored birds mate up?

  29. #29 by rey arceo on April 22, 2010 - 1:21 am

    hope you dont mind i have a question to ask its not really related to the topic weve been discussing around here.i just wanna ask you about the paramixo pmv vaccine really works on the birds?will these vacc can conatin the birds that already afflicted by the said virus?is there any other way to prevent it?

  30. #30 by stephen on April 8, 2010 - 1:53 pm

    love the site chris,the info you provide is great top class,keep up the good work,

    • #31 by Chris Dahl on April 8, 2010 - 6:32 pm

      hi guys, new to the hobby/sport here. just a few quick questions to the diagram in the above illustration. i noticed that there are three different sections to this loft. now i understand some of the reasons why you would have separate sections; separating young birds from old birds, separating cocks from hens, etc. but if there are three sections each with its own trap doors, would you have to train each bird to use a specific trap for his assigned section? and what about the aviary entrances? each has his own entrance. could they not just exit their section and enter another one? my loft in progress is only 8x8x8 with no sections at the time, but it does have potential to grow one day.

      thanks for your replies in advance,


      • #32 by spiderman on April 20, 2010 - 11:24 pm

        Hi cris, yes you can train your birds in different sections. Simple things that you do is to close the other door when you flying one of the section(cocks/hens/ob/yb/breeder). Avairy is very important to each section. This is for birds fresh air, sunlight and exercises.

        Hope it’s clear to you.

  31. #33 by RAY BROWER on April 8, 2010 - 10:12 am


  32. #34 by chris dahl on April 8, 2010 - 6:57 am

    Hi guys, new to the hobby\sport. Just a few quick questions in regards to the loft. I noticed in the diagram that you have three separate sections. Now I do understand the need for separate sections, as in separating young and old birds, and separating during the mating season, but it each section has their respective trap and aviary door, couldn’t the birds still access the other sections by going through the different entrances? And do you have to train each bird to use a specific trap to their corresponding section?

    Thanks for your replies in advance,

  33. #35 by Chris Dahl on April 8, 2010 - 4:39 am

    Hi all, I am new to the hobby/sport, and am in the process of building my loft as we speak. just a few quick questions: I know some of the reasons behind having multiple section in the loft; as in seperating old birds from young birds, seperating cocks from hens in the mating seasons, etc. But i noticed in the illustration that you have three sections, with each section having its own respective trap and aviary entrance. First question is do you have to train each bird to use individual traps according to their sections? And second is can’t the birds just go into their aviary entrances and enter another section? Thanks for your replies in advance guys.


  34. #36 by Nick Demas on March 25, 2010 - 11:53 am

    Hi Chris,
    I find the articles from Insider magazine very helpful and informative. I would love to get some advice about proper ventilation for aloft on Long Island, NY. The loft is 20’Lx10’Wx10’H with a peak roof. We get some very rainy,humid,and cold day sometimes. I would like to know where do the intake and exhaust`vents go. Especially
    when it comes to nestboxes or perches on back wall. Exhaust vents go over or under
    these fixtures. Or just put a exhaust fan in the attic with adjustable sliding ceiling and intake vents at floor level front.
    Thanks, Nick Demas

  35. #37 by patrick kelly on March 21, 2010 - 9:39 am

    that was mint reading

  36. #38 by John Narciso on March 20, 2010 - 11:49 am

    Hi Chris,
    Thanks much for the articles on the “racing pigeon loft”part 1 and 2. For me , very informative. I actually found a site that had loft design plans and printed all that out, and now I have your articles. Up to this point, I was comfortable with pigeon info I had researched, but not very when it came to the loft, both in design and function.I am getting more comfortable with it and should soon be building my loft. Can’t wait!! I just need to get a better understanding of placing the birds in which parts of the loft.
    Chris, keep up the great work,as I am new to this site but really enjoy the articles and the comments from the fancey.
    Thank you.

  37. #39 by ARTEM on March 16, 2010 - 5:30 am


  38. #40 by Ron Osgood on March 15, 2010 - 12:57 pm

    Ventilation and not drafts are key, a dry loft is essential. A good sound health routine, if one is sick why treat them all? Remember races are not won from a bottle. Common sense is essential. Do not over crowd, more is not better, quality with less is better. Remember you can buy the man’s birds but you can’t buy the man. Do what you feel is best for the birds not the flyer. There is no short cut in this sport you get out of it what you put into it. So enjoy what you do and don’t make it a job. What works well in one area may not suit another area. Keep them healthy, motivated and most of all love home and you will be successful.

  39. #41 by Melvin Knight on March 14, 2010 - 5:28 pm

    If you want to be on the top of the race result listing. The best stock you can acquire. Cleanliness, cleanliness cleanliness… Good clean feed, GOOD VENTILATION – FRESH AIR and the little tricks that you think will work for you teas garlic etc brewars yeast, honey,vitamines, probiotics, whey. electrolites … Keep em flyin love peace and happiness A friend in the sport.
    Brite – Knight Lofts

  40. #42 by Mike on March 14, 2010 - 2:03 pm


  41. #43 by Hal Hickton on March 13, 2010 - 7:45 pm

    Ideal loft for what climate? Whatever country one is in and works for them is not a blue print for othe fliers in other countries. Ventilation is an open loft with snow blowing in or fans going in the warmer countries. Hot or cold, pigeons just need fresh air. Heated lofts etc detrimental to the birds. Dry lofts or wet floor lofts. Rain or snow comes what? The birds just get up on the perches. Clean the floor every day? Why? Deep litter with straw or whatever, kitty litter with Stable Boy or whatever eliminates most bugs. Pigeons are not people! One cannot apply the same mindset. They have an open loft they can peck in the pasture and eat what is good for them. Cow crap or whatever. They know what they need. No commercial mix or additives can even come close. Health? Sick and do not recover within a reasonable time nuke em. Basics. All the pigeon is concerned about when raced is getting home. Bird gets thirsty goes down for water in some E.Coli or bad bacterial water. So theoretically, no matter how much preventative meds have been used, they end up being useless for that situation. Good pigeons, in my opinion anyway very seldom get sick. Whatever. Millions are spent on pigeon meds every year. Super foods etc,. Oh well. Each to their own.

  42. #44 by Clifton on February 17, 2010 - 3:35 pm

    A very interesting part. Both the first and the second part strikes me because i found them usefull. I would like to ask you, what can I do to buy the book `pigeon insider` ?? because it seems that it is very interesting book. thank you.

  43. #45 by Phillip Schmidt on February 13, 2010 - 8:50 pm

    Thanks for all the info ,it makes my life as novice much easier and I am sure it will help me to reach my goals faster.Dont have to learn every thing trough trail and error!

  44. #46 by PigeonMaster on February 7, 2010 - 10:11 am

    I love this site. Very informative and I will always tune in for more info.

  45. #47 by TOM NETTIS on January 29, 2010 - 7:54 pm


  46. #48 by RehanBhatti on January 25, 2010 - 11:22 pm

    thanks all for great information

  47. #49 by waynef on January 22, 2010 - 11:41 am

    I just recently started receiving these newsletters. I have learned a great deal. I have gone back through the archives and have enoyed and learned. It seems I learn more each day as I grow older. Keep the newsletters coming.

  48. #50 by Bertie Grobler on January 21, 2010 - 8:26 am

    Thanks a lot for all the info. It is very helpfull and great that people share there ideas and techniques.

  49. #51 by CHARLIE BARBIERE on January 16, 2010 - 10:39 am

    I enjoy your articles and think its great that we are sharing news and tips.You are never to old to learn and the cinn. tea is new to me.Keep up the good work putting this type of info out. YOURS IN SPORT–CHARLIE BARBIERE

  50. #52 by tommski on January 12, 2010 - 8:07 am

    thanks for the Loft part 2 impressed and suprise that my inquiry was paid attention, your a great help to the fancier and ofcourse to the sport, great man !

  51. #53 by feodor on January 8, 2010 - 2:28 pm

    Goodday! its good to learned more ..especially like me a beginner..your really
    a big help for me.. more power!

  52. #54 by terry , area13loft on December 30, 2009 - 4:42 pm

    read every think you can ,listen to all the old farts and use what you think best fits you loft .what works for me might not benift your loft .you just keep trying listen to your birds they will tell you whats wrong just have patients.

    • #55 by terry on December 20, 2010 - 5:33 pm

      You have it right I believe, keep it as natural as possible.Merry xmas.

  53. #56 by david rushforth on December 30, 2009 - 2:54 pm

    there is some really interesting information in here. i’m worried though that there is almost too much and i don’t have the time or the money to do all of the recommendations. Having said that if i can pick up some of key points and implement them, then that’s a real bonus i’m sure.

  54. #57 by terry , area13loft on December 29, 2009 - 6:46 pm

    its all about the details (secrets) that i find noone wants to share becouse thats the edge to racing everyone has there litle details that took so long to figure out but with alittle patience youll come up with your own little bag of details

  55. #58 by eduardo cua on December 28, 2009 - 10:43 pm

    i have learn a lot. but it seems not so complete and thorough with regards to details.

  56. #59 by Michael on December 27, 2009 - 10:11 pm

    I am new to subscribing to Pigeon Racing Pigeons and I am very impressed with all of the content that I have read so far, KEEP IT UP PLEASE.
    Michael Perez, Fort Worth TX

  57. #60 by john glemser on December 24, 2009 - 12:22 pm

    Thank you so much for these newsletters. I havebeen flying birds for about 36 years and I am still learning every day. These newsletters have really opened my eyes to see things that I normally just take for granted. Now I am learning the insight on exactly what I am looking for. Please keep them coming. Yours in the sport, John

  58. #61 by carlos on December 24, 2009 - 11:34 am

    Thanks for the articles they are well worth the read.:)

    • #62 by Dinesh on May 11, 2010 - 10:35 pm

      Do not over boil the cinnomon folks! – add cinnomon to water it just when the water has boiled and immediately put the heat off,let the brew this stage if you have Neem Oil add about one tea spoon to every i litre of the brew

  59. #63 by Gille on December 20, 2009 - 4:32 pm

    It’s made from a ****HEAPING**** teaspoon of cinnamon which is brought to a hard boil in 2 cups of water. Simply add this tea to a gallon or two of fresh water and use it in the drinkers for the next 48 hours.

  60. #64 by Gille on December 20, 2009 - 4:25 pm

    I found online years ago that cinnamon tea which is anti-bacterial destroys the salmonella and e-coli allowing the bird to concentrate on beating back the coccidiosis. It’s made from a teaspoon of cinnamon which is brought to a hard boil in 2 cups of water. Simply add this tea to a gallon or two of fresh water and use it in the drinkers for the next 48 hours. I limit it to 48 hours because though it will kill salmonella and e-coli it may also kill good bacteria. Some pro-biotics would be helpful. But like the article above says, you have to watch for signs of a problem. It only takes a few days for coccidiosis to destroy a bird or even a loft of them. So watch for WATERY GREENISH DROPPINGS and birds that LOSE WEIGHT AND DO NOT WANT TO FLY. This year we lost one.It wasn’t drinking the tea. All of the others have recovered. So watch for brids that are not drinking and use a syringe to put some down into their crop two or three times a day for two days. When our Rollers had it a few years back we lost none and they all bounced back very quickly but the homers through the did get well seem to take more time to rebound to full health. It may depend on how bad things where for them to begin with. But I’ve found cinnamon tea works works. I told a breeder who’s in his 80’s who’s been raising birds longer than I’ve been alive he tried it late this fall when he spotted a problem and he told me it worked on his homers as well. The only guarantee you’ll get with medicine or going natural with cinnamon is to catch it before it gets a strong foothold in your birds. Do a websearch on, “cinnamon anti-bacterial” or check out this article by Anahad O Connor, from the New York Times News Service which is stored at
    Thanks for the articles they are well worth the read.:)

    • #65 by patrick kelly on March 21, 2010 - 9:42 am

      that was a good read wot is the best corn 4 sparint

      • #66 by Dinesh on May 11, 2010 - 10:27 pm

        Try Turmuric paste. In India Turmuric is used as the best cure for bacterial and viral infections….Take a teaspoon of powder mix it it with few drops of Neam Oil and work it to a paste and apply to infected area over a week to 10 days ,make sure the bird is isolated . Othersie you will see no results because organic approach is not fast enough to new bloody diseases which mutate forms like no ones business

  1. Dr. Rob Marshall « Pigeon Racing Pigeons

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